2016 Honda Crf230f Service Manual
The Cyclepedia Press LLC Honda CRF230F online repair manual features detailed full-color photographs and wiring diagrams, complete specifications with step-by-step procedures performed and written by a seasoned Honda dealer trained technician. This Cyclepedia manual covers 2003 – 2017 Honda CRF230F, 2008 – 2009 Honda CRF230L and 2009 Honda CRF230M motorcycles.
CRF230F Modifications Honda CRF230F - Modifications June 15, 2018 version Modifications Click pictures to supersize. Alphabetical table of contents CHANGE CHANGE Changes I made from November, 2002 to Spring, 2003. What is going on here? I just bought the 230F, and already I'm modifying it.
Well it's in my nature to change any new bike that I buy. I justify changes as 'personalization', but I suspect I'm just a closet engineer, and I want to 'design' my own changes to satisfy my engineering urges. I did the following in no particular order: Naked bike - Removed unnecessary plastic, which included tank shrouds, side and front number plates. The bare black tank is rather crude looking. Removed the unnecessary exhaust pipe heat shield.
I cut the two right-side number plate spacers off the muffler; I don't use the side number plates, and I needed to get that extra weight off;-) With the plastic side covers (number plates) removed, part of the battery compartment was exposed. I made a small unobtrusive plastic cover to secure the area. I also made a small box for the front that holds my lunch, extra gloves, etc.
I made both of these out of, which is easily cut and is heat deformable. Purchased the 'MP' tool kit and small vise grip pliers to carry in the box on the front. Kold Pak - Added Kold Pak to the rear of the seat. The pak is a SpareTube Fenderbag, and it holds my MSR Gore-Tex Pak-Jak, Cold Pro gloves, polypro glove liners, and Masque. The pak mounts using four straps with clips that fasten over the fender edges, although I run the straps through slits in the fender, so they absolutely won't pop off. Mounted a trailer marker light as a tail light.
Honda Crf230f Modifications
Mounted the license plate backed with a thin piece of plastic. Footpegs - If you ride in rocks (who doesn't?), then you may damage the cotter pins and washers on the bottom of the foot peg pivot pins. The cotter pins often get mashed and dragged off, and then the washers drop off. To minimize this problem, I reversed the foot peg pins, mounting the cotter pins and washers on the top. The flat heads on the foot peg pivot pins don't stick down at all and can take substantial abuse and never come off. Shifter bolt - Replaced the shifter mounting bolt with a longer bolt, then added a lock nut. The shifter will never come loose!
The three other pieces are what I'm now using. I enlarged the center hole of the carrier piece and modified it to hang the bags at an angle. The bags hang from the carrier via straps.
I bought the Stearns ATV bags at Walmart. I bought one set that fits over the tank (to get the carrier) and one set that fits on the fender (to get the smaller bags). The bags all come in camo or black. Here's a link for the tank bags I bought a set of MoJavi Saddlebags by Giant Loop that I put on my WR250R. The bags are small and out of the way. I've been thinking of trying them on my CRF230F.
I don't use side number plates and will have to add some kind of heat shield to keep them off the muffler. Mixing CRF 150F and 230F linkage - October 11, 2011 You can mix and match stock Honda suspension parts to get different seat heights. The parts to swap are the shock link and shock arm assemblies. I call these parts the link and rocker as they are commonly referred to by many riders. The link is the u-shaped part. The rocker is the triangle-shaped part.
Both of these assemblies contain metal sleeves, needle bearings, and seals that are identical between the 150F and 230F, which is why the parts are interchangeable. To summarize: Link = u-shaped part Rocker = triangle-shaped part Parts to test: 150 link 150 rocker 230 link 230 rocker Measuring The relevant measurements are the lowest and highest points of the seat. But these are too difficult to measure accurately - you need a level, ruler, and the bike must be vertical.
It is easier and more accurate to measure from the ground to points on the frame with the bike held vertical. These measurements will indicate the relative seat heights. I chose two places to measure from: M1 = from the ground to the lowest point on the paint label under the front of the seat M1 is the lowest point on the seat indicator (front) M2 = from the ground to the bottom of the metal sleeve in the muffler hanger M2 is the highest point on the seat indicator (rear) I did all the swapping and measuring on a CRF230F, so if you have a CRF150F, you will get different results. The 230F I used for the measurements had no engine/tranny, gas tank, or seat, so the front and rear suspension was fully extended. You will get slightly different numbers when measuring a fully assembled and fueled 230F.
Measurements Offset from stock M1 front M2 rear Front Rear 150 link 230 rocker 30 1/2 32 1/16 Lowest -5/16 -1/2 230 link 230 rocker 30 13/16 32 9/16 Stock height 0 0 150 link 150 rocker 31 3/16 33 Higher +3/8 +7/16 230 link 150 rocker 31 7/16 33 1/2 Highest +5/8 +15/16 Here are pictures of the tested parts; the CRF150F part (labeled KPT) is on the left in each picture. The CRF230F part is labeled KPS. Note that the distance between the pivot bolts on the 150F link is longer than the 230F link. I measured about 3.3mm longer. Note that the 150F rocker is longer on the left and right sides than the 230F rocker, making the 150F part larger overall.
I have mounted a trials tire on the rear of my CRF230F, and the larger outside diameter of this tire (compared to stock) raised the rear of my 230F axle about 5/8'. To compensate for this extra height in the rear, I swapped in a 150F link, and this lowered the seat about 1/2' when the 230F is standing vertical, fully assembled, full gas tank, and with no rider aboard.
CRF231F update - September 13, 2013 Includes new engine, Clarke 3.0 gal fuel tank, Seat Concepts seat, Fox Podium shock, Vee Rubber DOT trials-like rear tire I have two CRF230F motos and to distinguish between them, I call them CRF231F and CRF232F; the 1 and 2 denote the first and second 230Fs that I bought. Some time ago, the cam timing chain on the CRF231F stretched beyond spec and the chain came off the drive gear. The piston hit the valves and the top end was mangled. I removed the engine and made plans to upgrade it to an Engines Only 251, and bought all the parts to do the job. The engine languished on my work bench because I never seemed to find the time to complete the project.
This summer, I got back into it and installed a 230F engine from a bike I bought last summer. (I never did finish the EO 251 project; maybe get to it this winter.) While I was doing the engine swap, I did a few other mods - fuel tank upgrade, seat upgrade, rear shock upgrade, new headlight, tank bags, and miscellaneous smaller details.
Here's a picture of the bike in rideable form: Click pictures to supersize. I installed a 3.0 gallon Clarke fuel tank to get increased range - should be good for about 150-170 miles now. I bought this tank from an inmate on a guess that it would fit either of my 230Fs - '03 and '05. Clarke says that it won't fit pre '08 models. In '08, Honda changed the stock tank, reducing it from 2.1 gal to 1.9 gal - good move Honda, reduce fuel capacity on the ultimate trail bike!
Well, the Clarke tank fit, kinda. The tank mounting bolts and rear strap fit perfectly.
However, the seat doesn't fit exactly - there's a small gap as you can see in the pictures. Some of the gap is due to the Seat Concepts seat mod, but the rest is due to the Clarke tank shaped to match the '08 and newer stock tank/seat design. I have no idea if the stock '03/'05 tank shrouds fit because I have never used them on any of my 230Fs.
There is also a small problem with my CRF150R USD forks - they hit the tank before full swing of the triple clamps. I heated the front of the tank with a heat gun and turned the forks full-lock to deform the tank just enough to allow full swing. I inserted a 1/8 inch thick piece of split plastic hose on the forks before pressing into the tank to get some extra clearance. It all works fine and I really like the extra riding range! A friend installed the Clarke tank on his otherwise stock '09 CRF230F and the forks also hit. He added some rubber bumpers to the stock fork stops and solved the problem.
When fitting the CRF150R USD forks, I had to relocate the CDI from the front of the steering tube to a spot under the fuel tank. I moved the CDI box only (I set aside the bracket and rubber holder).
2016 Honda Crf230f Service Manual
I found it was easiest to disconnect the CDI and move it around until I found a spot that I liked, then connect the wiring, then use zip-ties to hold everything in place. I made sure that the plastic wiring connectors were not under any pressure from touching anything. There was adequate clearance from the fuel tank (I checked).
I added and changed quite a few parts while doing the engine replacement: Item Approx cost Where purchased 2007 CRF230F stock low-mileage engine $1000 Local rider sale Polisport MMX headlight $55 Tank bags (Trailmax JR Hornbag) $28 Local Murdoch's Ranch and Home Supply Clarke 3 gal fuel tank $218 Bought from a TT inmate Fox Podium X shock $600 Seat Concepts seat foam and cover $180 Kenda K270 DOT front tire $31 Vee Rubber VRM308 DOT trials-like rear tire $105 DID VT2 chain w/rivet master link $98 CRF150F suspension link $30 eBay; see previous panel above for details. Horn $7 Switches and electrical wiring $60 Several items remain to be installed/updated, but the bike is ready to go now. I've ridden it a few times and the Vee Rubber rear tire is the best DOT trials-like tire I've used. Vee Rubber rear tire specs: 4.00 R18 M/C 64L 110/100 R18 M/C 64L Section width = 110 mm Aspect ratio = 100% Rim diameter = 18 in Load rating = 64 = 617 lbs Speed rating = L = 75 MPH Tire width, measured = 4' Durometer, measured = 58 Wiring diagram The wiring diagram published in the CRF230F Honda Service Manual has 3 mistakes, as was shown in a post on ThumperTalk. The left diagram below shows the errors and the right diagram shows the corrected version. Click each to supersize; right-click to save a copy for yourself.
Bike setup info from other riders. Gordon mods GordonB from Huntsville, AL made a very effective and easy-to-make skidplate for the 230F. Starting with (A) a Maier plastic skidplate for a Honda 300 4x4, I cut off the front part (B), and then trimmed off the rear corner sides (C) to clear the shift lever and brake pedal. This plastic is nearly 1/4' thick, and is extremely tough. I've had one on my ATV for over six years, and it has never cracked or broken.
It's easy to cut with a band saw or jig saw, and can be curved as desired with heat from a heat gun or propane torch. I like it better than aluminum because it's lighter, doesn't dent, and it has a bit of 'give' to it to absorb impacts. (Ed note - It's quieter than aluminum, also.) I've been using mine for several weeks now, and it works very well. This particular skidplate sells for about $75 and is available in red and black. Smaller skidplates are available for less, but I don't know their sizes, or if they are wide enough. Other comments from Gordon I've not seen much benefit from the Power Up jetting. Using the stock front sprocket with a 54T rear sprocket (had to add one link and two master links to make it fit) seems the perfect combination for my riding.
As well as being a good Trials play bike in the rocks and logs, it's no slouch in very tight and rough trails, either. I've been able to keep up with and often stay ahead of my friends on their 250s to 450s in the 5-15 mph sections of the woods. In the faster sections, of course, it runs out of horsepower and suspension pretty quickly. DaveC mods DaveC lives in Colorado Springs. He modified his 230F by adding lighting and a few performance mods. Here are his comments: I installed an Acerbis Diamond headlight ($75) that required some modification. The headlight comes with three 20 watt bulbs, and I removed the smaller third bulb to limit the draw and allow sufficient battery charging.
I plugged the hole with some scrap plastic and epoxy. This reduced the wattage consumption but still maintained adequate illumination for trail riding. I checked the stator output myself. The manual states that the system is rated at 65 watts. The actual was slightly higher, but I still modified my lights to comply with Honda's specifications.
With the headlight, taillight, and brake light on, the system draws 54 watts. I installed a hydraulic brake light switch ($12) on the master cylinder. The straps to connect the headlight to the forks are designed for larger forks, so I bought a bicycle inner tube ($2), cut it in half, and wrapped each half around the forks where the headlight connects. This produces a non-slip connection. To operate the lights and eliminate the need for two separate switches on the cramped handlebars, I purchased a Baja Designs combo light and kill switch ($25, part #129020) and removed the stock kill switch. (Editors note - Sano!) I purchased an Acerbis Modular Enduro Taillight ($36) and removed the light from the fender piece that came with it. I turned the light up-side-down and attached it to the under side of my rear fender with two sheet metal screws. The screws protrude through the fender under the seat and cannot be seen unless the seat is removed.
The light fits just right to allow visibility from the rear but otherwise is not visible on the bike. When the rear shock is completely compressed, the tire just misses the light. (Editors note - this has to be the most unusual taillight mounting, ever;-) The lighting kit is wired through the ignition key switch.
I did this after consulting several other motorcycle systems that come stock with electric start and lighting. It is not currently fused.
2017 Honda Crf230f Service Manual
However, I believe the power to the keyed ignition switch is already fused. The lighting setup works great. It's a good alternative for those looking for a light kit that looks sleek and doesn't cost too much. Total cost was about $150. Jetting info Main: 128 Pilot: 40 (stock is 42) Needle: Honda Power-up kit part #16012-KPS-921 (clip in 4th position) Pilot screw: Stock (5/8 turn out) Float level: Stock Jetting related Intake baffle: removed Exhaust baffle: removed (I plan to try a holey baffle in order to quiet things down.) Transmission vent filter: no Air filter: Twin Air w/oil Fuel grade: 91 Ride elevation: 8000 ft Other modifications Handguards: Acerbis Skidplate: no Engine mods: BBR rev limiter The BBR rev limited did produce some minor performance increase, but I would say it does not justify the expense. Most riders probably would not notice. LeoA mods LeoA lives in Colorado Springs.
He modified his 230F by adding lighting and a few performance mods. Here are his comments: I did your jetting changes and some baffle mods. I will make bigger holes now. Left the stock 102 main in as I ride lower (Divide and Trout Creek area) often. The bike is soft (poor throttle response) in the mid-range, but then again it only has about a half hour on it. Great response off the bottom.
The lights turned out great. I made the harness myself. The dealer was kind enough to give me the OEM Honda connectors AND loan me the crimp tool!!! Hint on the brake switch - the bike is very hard to put a rear mechanical on it.
Ended up putting a pressure switch on the front - replaces the banjo bolt. Fairly well protected, sits right under the bar and the wires don't stick out. Also on the headlight - the rev box makes for an interesting rube goldberg exercise! I got lucky - the UFO old XR copy design has a hole in the bottom-front.
I was able to use 1 1/4' PVC spacers on the fork legs to a) make the rubber holders tight, and b) position the headlight correctly so the rev box sticks out some in that hole in the bottom below the lens. I'll send you the Acerbis part number for the taillight. Went on really slick with no cutting. I drilled holes through the side support as the picture shows to route the wiring.
The 230 is working best for the 135 pound girlfriend with the stock 13T front sprocket. First is plenty low for her.
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